Understanding my new Heat Press instructions for temp & time setting

[Si Da Signmaker]

Thanks for the reply Martin, will give it a go, it will be a great excuse to get away from the relatives over the xmas break, "I just need to go & callbrate my Heat Press" that will confuse them.

P.S could you sugest a "starting point" so to speak (time/temp) for the CPM6.2 paper just need somewhere to start from so I can go up & down in time & temp until I get it right.

If I dont get the chance again (got to go & shut shop now) have a great xmas & a happy, healthy & prosperous 2013 to you Martin & also Justin & all the forum members

[Ask_Alan]

CPM is a product with a multitude of uses and hence temperatures and times.
On Card (display board) then 140 / 160 degrees for 6 seconds will work. Onto one papery surface I'ved used 90 degC 20 seconds with sucess.
On metal 160 deg with an A Pad (silicone pad ) for 2-3 mins depending on the bulk of the metal.
Leather printing - use a softpad or WowPad 170 / 45seconds. Copper covered PCB material - 2 mins /160, makes a good etch resist
printable CD's Apad 160 2 mins
prntable DVD and CD soft pad wow pad 140 / 45 seconds

Mugs - depends on the mugpress, best are the Lamp ones for CPM, for wrap presses a good general starting point is 160 for 105 seconds vary up down as needed

A knowledge of the target would help.

alan

[Si Da Signmaker]

Hello Alan,

Thanks for the info, seems like CPM is quite versatile but as of yet haven't had total success, I guess I need to get the right combination of heat, time & pressure. My only other concern is whether it is actually going to work with what i`m trying to do. Currently we make various wooden items, coat them with acrylic paint & decorate them using a dry rub transfer paper, the logical way forward seem to be trying the heat press approach, so I took the plunge & brought a heat press & CPM paper, in your opinion do you think it will work? so far not all of the toner is transfering on to the subtrate. Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers
Si

[Ask_Alan]

hi si
We have several folks putting CPM onto painted wood It works
Settings - 160 with eithor a softpad / wow pad at 45 seconds or an A-Pad at 2 mins
both with a good pressure.

timings are likely to vary with the heatpress so some experimention will be need.

the wood must be flat!

cheers alan

[Si Da Signmaker]

Hi Alan,

I` ve been using a silicon rubber pad, is there a great amount of difference between this, a softpad / wow pad & A-Pad ? From a tech point of view i`m curious to know how they all work, and in what way that they work differently. If I have to buy all 3 to see which one works it`s going to cost over £100. Which one out of the 3 do you think is likely to work?


Cheers
Si

[Ask_Alan]

The A pad is a thick @ 5mm slab of solid silicone rubber - semi translucent - it slows the rate of heat application down drastically and prevents problems with toner adhesion on some surfaces. also handy when dealing with some plastics and glass as the slow heat up can stop melt / buckling / cracking problems. usually used with metal / ceramics / plastics /glass / wood and painted wood. The elastic properties can help with pressing on uneven surfaces, "moulds" the CPM to the surface. For consistancy always start with a cold pad.
The Softpad/wow pad is foam silicone rubber - this is lets heat through quicker, used for less delicate surfaces or where a sudden heat shock is not a good idea! Commonly used on wood / painted surfaces / leather / book covers.

the silicone pad should work, the time will depend on how thick it is and the heat capacity / power of the press. If the Toner fails to take , increase time (and possibly pressure) with a solid silicone pad use steps of 15 seconds. any sign of "Starbursting", little stars in the image caused by toner boiling and popping, reduce the time (or temp if over 160C).

Times and temps vary with tomer composition, that is make of the printer.

[Si Da Signmaker]

Hi Alan,

The silicone pad i`m using is 1.6mm thick & feels quite stiff/firm, not sure if is right for the job.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1412[/ATTACH]
Thinking of trying either the Soft pad or the A pad, can`t make my mind up Mmm....

Thanks for you help Alan, any other advice you`ve got would be valued & appreciated.

Regards
Si

[Ask_Alan]

hi
The attachment dosnt work :frown:
Not sure what you have got there, silicones are not stiff, solid silicones are rubbery - think those garish kitchen spatulars

try buffering with 2 - 3 old tee shirts (they will scorch with these sort of times so old ones) so 4- 6 layers of cloth, 160 deg 45 seconds. should give an impression of the results. You may get the release coat coming off. peel cool to cold (CPM = Cold Peel Material)

alan

[Si Da Signmaker]

That`s great advice about trying the cloth layers Alan, it`s also helpfull to know that CPM = cold peel Material, all of this gives me a better understanding of how the paper works. I dont suppose you could give me a link to an instruction sheet for the CPM6.2 paper, I only brought some sample sheets & they did`nt come with any instructions. I will try try the pic again, it`s a jpg so it should work.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1414[/ATTACH]
Thanks
Si

[Ask_Alan]

If you (or anyone) needs sample sheets then ring / email / snailmail TheMagicTouch with what laser printer you have and an address -Important!. I'm afraid requests for samples without addresses tend to get ignored. :rolleyes: We will send out with instructions. This applies to most of the transfer paper we sell, WoW is different due to the nature of process, call technical or sales at Themagictouch for a chat or drop in if passing.

For basic settings see the "Transfer product guide" Page 31 (inside back cover) for times, temps and pads if needed. CPM is normally mirror printed. The setting for the printer varies depending on model but is normally heavy paper (1 weight up from plain paper) if possible a straight exit on the printer helps and stops scratching.
The product guide is here
Brochures

That silicone item I'm afraid I do not recognize it.