How do you use these papers with sublimation inks? I assume you can only press onto a polyester garment. I have looked on the YOLO site and it does say suitable for sub inks but not how to use them.webtrekker;122688 wrote: Ok, definitely some more experimentation needed, but at least you don't need an OKI and white toner (this was printed on a Canon inkjet with dye inks) and I think you'll agree the whites are white. No good if you want the wood to show through though. You can also use sublimation inks.
Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
Many thanks
Iain
Equipment used A4 Ricoh printer, HP3085 Heat Press Graphtec cutter, Jarin mug press, CJV 30-60 solvent printer and lots of help from DSF.
Iain
Equipment used A4 Ricoh printer, HP3085 Heat Press Graphtec cutter, Jarin mug press, CJV 30-60 solvent printer and lots of help from DSF.
- webtrekker
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Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
I believe the layer you print on is a thin layer of polyester, meaning you can use sublimation inks which will sublimate into this layer when heated and leave you with a colourful image. The print itself will, of course, appear as the usual dull, wrongly-coloured print typical of, say, mug wraps, before they are pressed.Quinsfan;122734 wrote:How do you use these papers with sublimation inks? I assume you can only press onto a polyester garment. I have looked on the YOLO site and it does say suitable for sub inks but not how to use them.
The thin polyester layer, in the case of the SofStretch appears white when printed on but turns perfectly clear when pressed. In the case of the Opaque II paper the layer is white and stays white in the unprinted areas, making it suitable for dark backgrounds.
Oops! I don't think I explained that very well! The sublimation prints will be dull BEFORE pressing, as in a mug wrap, but turn out fine once pressed.
Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
sub inks will sub onto all sorts of things, - they just don't wash unless bonded to polyester .... don't imagine you will machine wash your wooden toys often thou ....
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Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
Hi Allistair,
If you do decide to invest in a flat bed heat press the C119 clear self adhesive polyester film for Sublimation printing which we have available may be of interest to you. Please click on the link below to access further details
http://www.isub-supplies.co.uk/clear-po ... -glue.html
If it will help I can post a sample out to you.
Kind regards
Sarah
If you do decide to invest in a flat bed heat press the C119 clear self adhesive polyester film for Sublimation printing which we have available may be of interest to you. Please click on the link below to access further details
http://www.isub-supplies.co.uk/clear-po ... -glue.html
If it will help I can post a sample out to you.
Kind regards
Sarah
Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
Oh thanks so much for getting back to me, apologies I didn't respond. I got notifications about Justin's messages but not for any others.
It was only when I logged onto the page today to try and give it a little bump that I saw everyone's replies.
I'll have a good read through everyone's comments just now.
It was only when I logged onto the page today to try and give it a little bump that I saw everyone's replies.
I'll have a good read through everyone's comments just now.
Re: Applying graphics onto 2D wood figures (help needed)
Yeah, I have a friend who runs a business with a CNC router so the cutting of the shapes shouldn't be too bad. Its just the applying of the images that I'm currently struggling to get right.
The stockists are interested in an almost screen printed like quality. Ie printed onto the wood but as you say above that set up required for that is expensive. Think the only way to test it out is to get paper in for all the options you outline and trial. Unless anyone is interested in running through their equipment for me? (I don't have a flat bed press at the moment.)
Think a final coat of varnish/ lacquer will definitely be needed.
The stockists are interested in an almost screen printed like quality. Ie printed onto the wood but as you say above that set up required for that is expensive. Think the only way to test it out is to get paper in for all the options you outline and trial. Unless anyone is interested in running through their equipment for me? (I don't have a flat bed press at the moment.)
Think a final coat of varnish/ lacquer will definitely be needed.
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