Issues with Ricoh SG3100 DN

[technick]

Thanks Pisquee! I am still learning the terminology around ICC but that makes sense... I already have the ICC profile for the printer from Sawgrass and am finding the print quality is better when printing through the Ricoh (not powerdriver) in the print setup.

[technick]

Photoshop is going to do a better job of colour management than PowerDriver, you have very powerful professional software there, so use it at what it is good at. Get the Sawgrass ICC profiles for you printer, and use them.
Calibrate your screen, and use Photoshop in proofing mode, and you'll get a very good representation of what will be printed on the product - PowerDriver don't give you this.

One final question on this topis - i have a freelance graphic designer working a couple of designs that i will then sublimate using my machine. She has asked about recommended colour books and whether she has to do anything in particular from her end. Thanks:)

[pisquee]

Tell her to design with an Adobe RGB 1998 workspace profile, and make sure you are too.

[technick]

I have switched over to Adobe RGB 1998 settings last night and now notice a difference in the colour scheme, especially with the red. The difference is also clear when sublimated onto a mug.

Now that i am not using the powerdriver, do i need to flip each image before setting up to print, or is there a default setting which will remember for each time i print?

Thanks again for your help:)

[technick]

Sorry to be pain in the ***...

Getting there with PS but still having issues with colour set up.

Working CMYK is "checked" in Photoshop image settings underneath "custom", however the image i see on screen does not match the "simulated" working CMYK when i go into custom and select this manually. It actually replicates Adobe 1998 RGB, which is far too faint and nowhere near my original image colour scheme.

Having clicked through all the custom presets, I simply want to be able to print so that my final image resembles "Working CMYK" - this matches the exact colour scheme i currently have on my screen when i first created the image, it does not print off like this however (prints like Adobe RGB 1998!)

So... Do i need to uncheck CYMK, go into and create a custom file, Device to Simulate "Working CMYK US web coated (SWOP V2,), PERCEPTUAL?

Does this also mean i have to continue selecting Adobe 1998 RGB when i create a new file?

Nick

[pisquee]

You want to be working in Adobe RGB 1998 not CMYK - the printer driver is expecting RGB, if you send it CMYK it is going to have to convert them back to RGB. The printer ICC profile you have will be for RGB too.

[technick]

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Working CYMK.jpg (21.23 KiB) Viewed 1 time

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Working CYMK.jpg (21.23 KiB) Viewed 1 time

Hopefully this will help... You can see the colours on the CMYK are nice crisp and clear where as the Adobe is faded (when i go to print, my image comes out like shown in Adobe, even though in photoshop main screen it resembles the CMYK??.

The original image looks exactly like CMYK from the web however prints off like Adobe. How can i make the Adobe look like the CMYK colour scheme? What am i doing wrong?

[technick]

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properties.jpg (17.13 KiB) Viewed 1 time

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properties.jpg (17.13 KiB) Viewed 1 time

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properties.jpg (17.13 KiB) Viewed 1 time

Additional settings i have configured and believe are correct.

If i select "working CMYK" to simulate in the image options, will this still send to the printer as an Adobe 1998 colour scheme? Or must i simulate only using Adobe 1998?

Nick

[technick]

I think i may have solved the issue...

Would i be right in saying that if i select "SRGB iec 1966-2.1" in the proofing options, then the end print result should more or less match what i see on the screen? (providing i have my other print and colour settings set up correctly) - if i select Adobe 1998, the print ends up being too faded (as shown in example a few posts up)

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icc.jpg (16.99 KiB) Viewed 1 time

[UK Printed Mugs]

I'm sure others have a great deal more knowledge than myself on this but you would need to convert your CMYK graphic to RGB first in Photoshop (before going anywhere near print options) and if the artwork is not as vibrant then you would have to get your designer to re-do the artwork in RGB mode. Everything printed onto paper is normally in CMYK but when it comes to sublimation then it needs to be in RGB.