Black, Blacks on Mugs

[PrintArtsMidwest]

I'm having some problems starting out. Trying to print a good black onto a 11oz Black ORCA mug with a white sublimation patch. The black just will not come out black. Blacks are not printing green as I've been told they would if not hot enough and not brown as when it's to hot. I've tried the recommended time and temp from the press manufacturer, tried preheating the mugs and have played around with time/temp without much luck. Printing on an Epson Ecotank 2650 using cheap dye sub ink found on Amazon. Ink issue? Any suggestions? Links to the mugs, press and ink are below.

Thanks,

Dan

[Paul]

I think you will find that sublimation ink is just not as opaque as you would like. Black that is already on a mug is a kind of paint coating. what you trying to do is sending some gassed ink to the white. pictures with black will look great but if you trying to block it with solid black, i am afraid this going to be bad news for you

[PrintArtsMidwest]

I've seen and know a guy who is using the exact same mugs and "printing" white text by blocking the area surrounding it with black ink and they look great. However, he is using an Epson Surecolor F6200 Dye Sub printer that costs $7,000, while my set up is under $500

[Paul]

maybe he has better inks or paper that release more ink? not sure.

[johna1954]

Just come across this thread as I am having similar issues.
Basic Info:
Ricoh SG3110 printer with Sublisplash inks
Using Sublisplash ICC profile
SRace sublimation Paper
Freesub Twin Mug Press
180 degrees C for 180 seconds (recommended by supplier)

I was kindly supplied by Listawood samples of their Black Panel photo mug. I successfully printed my image, Yellow Duckling in a black (totally Black) surround. The idea being that the black of the printed image would merge with the black of the mug. It worked, looked good. Customer happy to go ahead with a sizable order.

Can I get the same results, that is a big NO. After a lot of wasted mugs the only conclusion I can come to is that the bulk order of mugs have an 'ORCA' coating whereas the original samples had a 'Duraglaze' coating. ( I note that you mention an ORCA coating in your post) I can get a very dark brown which nearly matches (and may have to do) or a dark bluey/grey (which will not do at all).
I have used the same settings etc on a plain white Durham mug and can get a reasonable Black and also onto a ceramic coaster a pretty good Black (with longer standard time).
Must be the mugs!!! Will contact supplier on Tuesday for any advice but would welcome any thoughts in the meantime as customer will back out if unable to complete order soon.