DSF

Seems a bit dodgy to me alright! I'd imagine Adkins or Xpres will fix it for you.

NikGrey;80415 wrote:I don't know but I have asked Luke if I can Calibrate it properly - I don't want to take it apart if there is no way of doing it.

It seems quite simple, expecting to see a Pot just for this but don't want to take it apart yet as I don't want to void my 60 year warranty.

Yeah there must be a small preset type pot for setting somewhere in there - give them a call.

There is a reset button - Adkins have been on the phone.

I am going through the calibration now - will post about it when complete.

Its a combination of key presses.

pisquee;80386 wrote:Your colour looks a little washed out, assuming that your sublimating these onto polyester canvas?
Also your corners aren't very neat (you can see a bulge) - this is the trickiest bit to get the hang of and takes some practice.
Definitely get yourself a decent staple gun, it'll make the job a lot easier than drawing pins!

I was thinking the same too. I do canvases all the time but i use a printer and not subdye.

With reference to the background of the pic with the scissors, desk etc it looks like there's a lot of contrast missing. Im sure the cat was as black as the night yes? for me that isnt coming through from the image im looking at. Also, i can see the corners of the canvas sticking out. It looks like you used the thinner canvas bars yes and not the gallery 38mm ones. I would suggest you use the thick bars, they look far better. Yes they're a little dearer but so much better in the long run.

Did you use the wooden or plastic wedges to re-stretch the canvas after you mounted it? If not the canvas will sag within a few days and it'll look awful (its looking a bit loose now)

There is a way to get really sharp folds on your edges as well but for the life of me i couldnt even think how to explain it here in text...i learnt it by experimenting...but whatever you do...dont leave your "folds" exposed...as in the reverse!...ive seen reverse folds done by some of the most reputable canvas sellers on the web and they look truly horrendous!

If you want any help, ill be happy give advice mate...im doing canvases for nearly 10 years now...only ever one complaint too...and that was that i did the wrong person on the canvas! ouch!

good luck
Dave

i didnt see all the other replies so i'll add my extra 2 penny worth...for what its worth

The other print looked a bit better with the colours i will say, but sill not sellable imho!

What canvas is it? this is such a huge factor! I use Grafityp and Metamark and both give different results, saying that though i use Eco-Sol Max inks for my Roland Versacamm. Ive seen subdye canvases before and they just dont seem to cut the cloth when compared to large format set-ups. thats just my opinion though, im sure there's a way to get better results with subdye but i fear its an ICC profile issue, and thats a whole heap of trouble from the start!

Regarding staple guns (LOL)...ive been through them all, from compressors to hand guns! Ive used electric ones, rechargeable ones....you name them ive used them. All you need is one that fires a decent staple into the stretcher bar and job done. The latest one i use is from B&Q, it cost about £8.00 and to be honest its one of the best so far! I used an air gun stapler and it just went through the canvas! waste of time imo but each to their own.

If you're going to to start using larger canvas stretcher bars (upwards of 20" by whatever), the one thing i would recommend is to get yourself a set of canvas stretchers. You clamp the canvas into it on both sides and then use a ratchet to stretch both sides at the same time! That way you get an "uber" stretch lol...and when you staple it down you then get a nice "doink doink" sound when you ping the canvas! hmmmmmmm im not sure how much sense that made there but it sounded good. I bought mine off of ebay for £200. it sounded pricey but its a good piece of kit to have if your serious about canvas.

----


im here all week....try the prawns

Dave

I think there's guides on YouTube showing how to fold the corners.
I too would recommend proper gallery 38mm bars, but if Nik is limited to an A4 printer, then there's not going to be much image left for the front once it wrapped.

Thanks everyone so-far for your useful replies.

This started as a little test, I bought some cheap pre-made canvas on stretchers from a local tat store - I had no idea about different sized bars and I even thought the small pieces of wood supplied were 'biscuits' for stiffening when complete - I had no idea these were used to stretch more !
These were just thrown together to show how the prints were - I will be able to perfect the folds, I wasnt sure how to tidy the back - maybe some thin hardboard cut to size? dont know yet but I wont leave the folds exposed.

The Staple Gun I found is fine - it has adjustable force so I can adjust it just prefect so it doesn't penetrate the canvas fully.. I must say the wood in these bars is harder than I expected though !

Feelers are out for an A3 printer, I realise I am not going to get anything of a useable size with A4 - but for testing the prints it's fine.

No idea what the canvas is - I was sent a nice wodge (is that a word?) as as sample from a kind member here.

I must admit this has taken me off at a tangent I didn't expect - learning anything new is always welcome in my book. I will come back to the Canvas properly soon.

Here you go Nik.....made for purpose tape for tidying up the back of the canvas........

http://www.picturemaster.co.uk/product_ ... s_tape.htm

Thanks Roger, and it's not even expensive

NikGrey;80470 wrote:Thanks everyone so-far for your useful replies.

This started as a little test, I bought some cheap pre-made canvas on stretchers from a local tat store - I had no idea about different sized bars and I even thought the small pieces of wood supplied were 'biscuits' for stiffening when complete - I had no idea these were used to stretch more !
These were just thrown together to show how the prints were - I will be able to perfect the folds, I wasnt sure how to tidy the back - maybe some thin hardboard cut to size? dont know yet but I wont leave the folds exposed.

The Staple Gun I found is fine - it has adjustable force so I can adjust it just prefect so it doesn't penetrate the canvas fully.. I must say the wood in these bars is harder than I expected though !

Feelers are out for an A3 printer, I realise I am not going to get anything of a useable size with A4 - but for testing the prints it's fine.

No idea what the canvas is - I was sent a nice wodge (is that a word?) as as sample from a kind member here.

I must admit this has taken me off at a tangent I didn't expect - learning anything new is always welcome in my book. I will come back to the Canvas properly soon.

you've got yourself in to a tidy market if you can do it right! although prices have plummeted since everyman and his dog bought a large format printer a few years back. i used to sell a 24x16" canvas for £80 !!! yes 80 quid! now i do them for £35 (trade)

Picturemaster are good and so are canvasandstretcher. They're all around the same price for bars but i would suggest you go for the thicker 38mm frames - much nicer imo.

you said that you just bought a ready made canvas too, i wasnt aware that they would take sublimation at all! i thought they were for hobbyist types. Interesting that your print worked at all!

i just bought an Epson 1500W A3+ printer from PC World for £220. Paul here did my profile for me. its a 6 colour printer but im a little let down that it didnt use 2 blacks, instead it uses LC and LM. still good though.

when i mentioned "what canvas did you use?" i forgot that you were sublimation. The canvas i use is a poly/cotton mix, i found that 100% cotton was quite dull.

Yes....you need to use a small hammer and doink them wooden/plastic wedges in after the initial mount. You need to hear the tight "doink doink" sound when finished. A gentle flick of your finger on the canvas will reveal the sound lol. But you wont get much "doink" from the thin stretchers though.

Enough "doinking" for now lol

let us see your next results. if you want i could video how to do the corners for you. just ask

laters
Dave