Vinyl on car - basics

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kris_hm
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by kris_hm »

Hi,
I've got wide experience in t-shirts printing (flock, flex, subli). I never did anything else like stickers, banners ect.
Now, I would like to decorate my own car with vinyl writing. It's gonna be Motorhead name across car's hood :cool:
but don't know where to start :confused:
don't want to spend $$$ as it's gonna be one time job. what are essentials I have to buy and know ?
thanks
AlanD
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by AlanD »

I am a signmaker and letter many vans and signs in the course of a year. Ensure you use the correct vinyl to start with, I use Avery 700 from Victory Design which is POLYMERIC.
Basic grades are:
Monumeric = flat surfaces, interior, exterior usually rated 3 year
Polymeric = flat and slightly curved or indented surfaces, interior, exterior usually rated 7-8 years
Cast - virtually all surfaces, exterior rated 7-10 years. This vinyl has minimum memory so more suited to very irregular surfaces, rivets etc.
Wrapping film is a different film all together and usually digitally printed with a matching laminate.

You will need to work in vector objects so a drawing programme is best, I have Signlab and Vinylmaster which are bespoke sign programmes but I also use Corel Draw - Illustrator is ok
Plotter - generally it is the same difference as presses in as much a good branded one is usually better than a cheap Chinese one, I'm talking long term durability here.
I have a Graphtec and Summa, both are years old but still work daily and produce results as new.

As you are working in vector you will need to brush up on your node editing skills as any automatic tracing may yeild acceptable results when printed relatively small such as mugs or tshirts but may not bare close inspection when 4ft long on a vehicle.
There are loads of fitting instructions on youtube but here is a link http://www.adsignwriting.co.uk/fixing.html with a few pictures.

These are very basic recommendations and you may be familiar with some of it anyway but I'm always happy to clarify anything you're not sure of.
Alan D
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kris_hm
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by kris_hm »

Thanks for reply !
I do have plotter and Corel Draw and I know how to use them. So what else will I need except of this polymeric vinyl? Do I need some transfer film ?? do I have to buy some tools or chemicals ?
AlanD
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by AlanD »

Yes, you will also need some application tape, can be bought from the vinyl suppliers, usually this is sold in 1220mm X 100m logos and cut down to widths at order time. I think most suppliers will sell pre-cut part rolls but this tends to be an expensive way of buying it.
A squeegee/spreader is required but an old credit card or new ice scraper will do at a pinch although proper sqeegees are not expensive and can be boaught with the vinyl.
I degrease with meths and /or glue and tar remover. If you feel confident put on dry if not wet the adhesive side of the sticker using squirty type water bottle or just wet the vehicle. You may want to leave a few minutes before removing the application tape, this just gives the vinyl glue a little more time to 'bite'
Unless you're planning to do a fair bit of vinyl work it may be more cost effective to do the file and send it to a local signmaker.
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kris_hm
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by kris_hm »

I know it would be cheaper to let someone else to do it. but I would like to try on my own just for fun and to learn some new stuff.

thanks again and I'll update with a progress ;)
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kris_hm
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by kris_hm »

Alan, I've just bought everything. Will let you know when arrive ! let the new adventure begin ;)
AlanD
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by AlanD »

Good luck! The sign industry has served me well this last 40 years from working with a brush to now - using computers for vinyl, garments, litho printing, web and more recently sublimation printing. I love the variation of work and I get as much satisfaction from the job as I did when I started at 16. I hope your 'fun' earns you a bit extra as well. :)
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NikGrey
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by NikGrey »

I found, through 'Trial and Error' that its best to soak the transfer tape (with 2 drops of Baby Shampoo in 0.5L warm water in a pump spray bottle) in the solution and leave it for about 20 mins before attempting to remove it (this is with the decal on the vehicle of course).

I think this all depends on the temperature (I have to work outside) - but if you try to remove the transfer tape too early the decal will not release well.

I have been doing a lot of this lately and absolutely love it - take note of what has been said about errors becoming apparent when you make big versions, I have had a few sad moments with this (and it cost me in vinyl).

Oh, and I use a Felt Squeegee.

There are different squeegees for different applications (I have a lot of them, all different colours for identity) - I also use China-graph pencils for marking out on the vehicle (some say I am a bit 'Anal' when it comes to marking out but thats just the way I was taught to do things).

Good Luck, it's fun learning even if you dont get it right first time.
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Dave271069
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by Dave271069 »

I use the Mrs hair dryer to slowly dry the wet vinyl on the car then peel away, I also use a drop of windscreen wash with water to clean car
AlanD
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Re: Vinyl on car - basics

Post by AlanD »

We all have our own favourite techniques for application and I'm a firm believer in 'if it works for you why change it'
Temperature on application can mean using a different technique. If fairly cold I fit either dry or if wet I will add a small amount of meths to the water. If warm I will add a drop or two of washing up liquid to the water - a little more if very hot. If applying wet I will leave 10mins or so before removing application tape, paper application tape generally is better for wet application as it dries out faster, clear is generally easier for lining up up multi colour work. The baby shampoo suggestion sounds interesting though, I might try that.
I find that Stabilo pencils are better than Chinograph - the marks remove easier, I find Chinograph to be a bit greasy where as Stabilo remove cleanly with a little water.
A hairdryer is part of my signfitting equipment mainly for removing vinyl as a heat gun can get too hot and leave the glue behind, also hairdryer is safer for gently warming the vinyl when folding the edges round on vehicle door gaps.
I think we may be straying away from dye sublimation:)
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