Help big corner issue phone cases

[socialgiraffe]

Hi Majk

What about trying to press just the corners of a case?

Get some printed dye sub paper and cut it up and stick just on the corners in such a way that it is nice and smooth and even. Cook that and see what happens. If you still get the lines then it could be a problem with the cases, if it's fine then it's the wrapping technique that needs work


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[Paul]

do you cut and tape your corners ?

[Majk]

Get some printed dye sub paper and cut it up and stick just on the corners in such a way that it is nice and smooth and even. Cook that and see what happens. If you still get the lines then it could be a problem with the cases, if it's fine then it's the wrapping technique that needs work

I will try

Paul[/url] ;96232]
do you cut and tape your corners ?

I've tried cut and not tape and cut and tape

[Majk]

Hello I've tried again today got new silicon sheet wich I tought that will help. And still no results I press really hard on corners with fingers and still white stripes on corners, and no ink on edges but I get overspray viz. pictures

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Then I've tried warp only edges and same I smooth them they looked realy nice when I placed them and still nothing

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10934311_924311377587761_1638201988_n.jpg (70.35 KiB) Viewed 8 times

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And this is my old done case and corners were perfect back then (got machine for 2 weeks).

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[bigj2552]

cut your corners - over lap the two bits of paper...fold tightly with heat tape , and i mean tight......

try that first...but it got to be tight bud..pull the heat tape till it starts to stretch tight, then apply/pull onto case

we got the same prob as i said before with the mini 3d machines, this and upping the heat a little stopped it totally

[ArtyGamer]

Sorry to resurrect an oldish thread, but I don't think your vacuum pressure is strong enough. I know that the gauge is showing a decent strength, but the first set of images you uploaded shows that the camera aperture has no dye transfer within it, so you can clearly see the colour of the blank case when really it should be whatever colour the design is over that area. None of my cases ever have the original colour showing through the aperture. If you've already tried what I'd posted before with using only two pieces of tape and pre-heating the jig for twenty minutes beforehand then it's certainly not a heat issue, which would further reinforce the possibility of it being a vacuum issue.

If the design isn't being pulled close enough, the dye won't make the leap from the paper to the surface and that's definitely what it looks like in the first images with the camera aperture, and it would also explain why you're getting such bad corner transfers. When I activate my vacuum, the paper is pulled so tight that it's virtually flat against the case and jig at the corners, except for where it is folded to a point automatically when the silicone pulls it towards the base. All I then do is give it a gentle nudge to push the sharp edge into the case so there's definitely dye there. Having said that, it doesn't really make much difference from the times where I've forgotten to do that.

I don't think it's your hoses or your vacuum pump though, and here's why...

http://www.dyesubforum.co.uk/vbforum/at ... 1420816461

I'd say that you're using too much bleed on your printouts. The image above shows that it's turned into something of a skirt and is flat on the bed of your press, which means it's also preventing the full amount of suction against the silicone membrane. It's because your jig is one of the shallow ones rather than the deep ones that I use, so while my paper bleed gets sucked right underneath the case against the outer lip (which also allows for the full dye transfer), yours isn't getting that chance as it's immediately being sucked to the bottom of the press and if you've placed the jig over that central hole it means it's creating its own little vacuum with the paper and not allowing the membrane itself to get the full strength.

So, change the amount of bleed on your printouts OR place another jig (which would also need to be heated otherwise it'll cool the one you're using to transfer the image) underneath the main jig so that it's much further from the base of the press. It'll help to promote the vacuum strength. Also, make sure that there's always a jig over that central hole otherwise it could suck the membrane down into it prematurely and affect the amount of suction to the rest of the platen (only applies when you're doing multiple cases at once as I can see from the image above that you've done two cases with a gap between them where the central hole falls, which means less suction).

I hope I've been clear with everything I've said. I'm writing this in a rush as I'm ridiculously busy right now.