Trying to find a solution for iphone blanks corners... We can do it! :-)

[ArtyGamer]

Oh, I do it VERY tightly... if it has room to move then it'll likely blur. Remember, the jig is already at full temperature so the ink will start to sublimate as soon as the hot jig clips into the phone case. The last thing you want is any image shift before it has hit the vacuum press. The tighter, the better.

[Davalos]

have you ever tried this with a cold jig? Of course it would lengthen the time in the oven - but I am curious to see if it necessarily required a warm jig.

[ArtyGamer]

Well... yeah That's why I said initially that I spent months trying different things to get it right. Cold jig doesn't work. If you think about it, it takes me TWENTY MINUTES to heat the jig up to the correct temperature in the first place for the dye to properly sublimate, so if you were to put a cold jig into the vacuum press and leave it for three minutes.. or even ten minutes... the intense cold of the dense metal would mean that it's never truly reaching the required temperature. As all the dyes sublimate at different temperatures, you'd end up with a faded print that has certain colouration missing.

Trust me... in fact.. don't trust me, just try it and let me know how you get on! Maybe I'm just unlucky!

[Davalos]

the thing is that I do not have the same machine you have. I had the same machine you had and then sold it and got some other ones on a trip I personally took to Guangzhou for other related purchases.

My machine is this one: http://www.sun-fly-sublimation.com/new- ... 24-38.html

I did not get it from sun fly, I got it directly from the manufacturer, sun fly is just a marketing/reselling firm.

Anyway, this machine sublimates phones with cold jigs no problem in 360 seconds at 180C. And with only 2 minutes warm up time for the machine. But I am still having problems with the corners. Some come out great, but some don't. I also notice your jigs are much taller then mine therefore the paper make what looks like a 90 degree bend upwards. I wonder if this has anything to do with it?

Are all your jigs as tall as the one pictured?

[magda]

Hi everyone, I have now done some testing with my new 3d press (st3042). I've tried artygamers method but it doesn't quite work for me. The main issue I get is crease marks on the corners. Does anyone else get these marks with this method? Does anyone know if there is a way to solve it? Image below illustrates the issue:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2917[/ATTACH]

I've chosen a light solid colour for my tests to be able to see any corner issues. I also include images of what the case looks like in the press and the vaccum pressure I'm getting:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2912[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]2913[/ATTACH]

The vacuum on my machine doesn't quite reach the red area. I've only used the machine a few times so I doubt there would be a split in the hose. Not sure what else it could be. Could also be that the dial is not 100% accurate and the pressure is more than it shows.


I've been getting better results with hand wrapping the cases, cutting the paper exactly to shape to avoid overspray on the inside. I still get crease marks but by hand wrapping I have control over where the marks appear and I only get one mark on each corner, see image:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2918[/ATTACH]


Regarding the top edges I got them to print ok with both artygamers method and by hand wrapping on the iphone 4 case which has a narrow edge. The iphone 5 cases I have are more tricky as the front edge is flat and wider. Below is the result on front edges with hand wrapping the iphone 5 case (results with the arty method were worse). I will need to tape the paper down on the 4 corners next time as there is some fading on the curves.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2915[/ATTACH]


Anyway I wish the method developed by artygamer would work for me as it would be faster and easier than hand wrapping. Any suggestions on how to avoid the crease marks I'm getting would be greatly appreciated Regarding the printing of the front edges I assume it depends on: jig shape, case shape, vacuum pressure

[Josh205]

I've tried to get someone to help me with a video but it's just not been possible thus far. What I did (for now) was to take photos while I was doing a case to let you see what I was doing. They're just phone photos so the quality is a bit gash, but hopefully you'll get a better idea and be able to see the outcome.

ArtyGamer can I ask where you get your cases? They look like good quality. Cheers

[asfasf]

And I now have a new issue with this. I use film instead of paper and now for some reason I got air bubbles between film and case or between film and silicone membrane. Vacuum is okay. Does anybody have any ideas why this happens?

[g1njeremy]

And I now have a new issue with this. I use film instead of paper and now for some reason I got air bubbles between film and case or between film and silicone membrane. Vacuum is okay. Does anybody have any ideas why this happens?

With film you should have it preheated for about 20 seconds inside the press BEFORE you turn on the vacuum. And for film, the pressing temperature should be significantly lower than paper or otherwise the film will stretch more. Hope it helps...

[asfasf]

With film you should have it preheated for about 20 seconds inside the press BEFORE you turn on the vacuum. And for film, the pressing temperature should be significantly lower than paper or otherwise the film will stretch more. Hope it helps...

Great, thanks! Do you use film? I am afraid that if I try to preheat film before turning on the vacuum it will melt and stretch.

And I have tried lower temperatures but have not managed to find the right combination of temperature and time to get the nice results.

[g1njeremy]

Great, thanks! Do you use film? I am afraid that if I try to preheat film before turning on the vacuum it will melt and stretch.

And I have tried lower temperatures but have not managed to find the right combination of temperature and time to get the nice results.

I'm planning to use film...My tips are just from the video that I see for the ST-1520. The temperature should be about 130-135 C but I don't know if your ink will transfer optimally at that temperature. Furthermore, the case shrinkage might not be optimal, i.e. it may not shrink enough to fit the phone perfectly.