new to mug press - advice before I start please!

[mfacer]

Hi all - after weeks of searching and endless changes of minds.. I now have all my kit and mug press and hopefully today I will be doing my first mug.

I've been making notes and it seems a lot of trial and error is involved? Here's what I have so far..

Temp: 185 degrees
Time: 240 seconds
pressure on clamp: just enough so the mug is gripped and doesn't move
the press should be pre heated before the mug goes in for the 240 seconds

Is there anything else I should be watching for? the designs I will be producing are not full wrap around images, they will essentially be a logo on the centre of the mug. Fairly small - so I'm not too worried about blowing out or anything at the edges.

As I'll only be doing small ish logos in the middle of the cup, I don't need a full wrap around. Am I OK to use the heat tape to just put a small square where I want the image to be transferred, or do I need to wrap the whole mug? (that seems a daft question actually, I am sure the answer will be to just stick the image where I want it!!)

Thank you for any advice!

[bms]

Hi all - after weeks of searching and endless changes of minds.. I now have all my kit and mug press and hopefully today I will be doing my first mug.

I've been making notes and it seems a lot of trial and error is involved? Here's what I have so far..

Temp: 185 degrees
Time: 240 seconds
pressure on clamp: just enough so the mug is gripped and doesn't move
the press should be pre heated before the mug goes in for the 240 seconds

Is there anything else I should be watching for? the designs I will be producing are not full wrap around images, they will essentially be a logo on the centre of the mug. Fairly small - so I'm not too worried about blowing out or anything at the edges.

As I'll only be doing small ish logos in the middle of the cup, I don't need a full wrap around. Am I OK to use the heat tape to just put a small square where I want the image to be transferred, or do I need to wrap the whole mug? (that seems a daft question actually, I am sure the answer will be to just stick the image where I want it!!)

Thank you for any advice!

To give specific advise (if your supplier of the kit can't help), can you confirm your printer (Ricoh or Epson), mug type (11oz for example are thicker than European mugs), mug press type as some have idle temps and others don't. All these factors will affect the overall pressing times and temps a little.

[mfacer]

ah ok thanks!

I bought the 110z press from Monster Doodles (http://www.monsterdoodles.co.uk/mug_sub ... egory_id=1)

The printer is a Ricoh A4 SG3110DN (http://www.printerowners.co.uk/sublimat ... rinter.htm) I bought based on reviews on this site - is that your website??

In fact the mugs I have at the moment are ones which came from the same printerowners site. 11oz 6 pack (http://www.printerowners.co.uk/sublimat ... on-mug.htm)

Thank you!

[bms]

ah ok thanks!

I bought the 110z press from Monster Doodles (http://www.monsterdoodles.co.uk/mug_sub ... egory_id=1)

The printer is a Ricoh A4 SG3110DN (http://www.printerowners.co.uk/sublimat ... rinter.htm) I bought based on reviews on this site - is that your website??

In fact the mugs I have at the moment are ones which came from the same printerowners site. 11oz 6 pack (http://www.printerowners.co.uk/sublimat ... on-mug.htm)

Thank you!

Thanks!

Set your idle temp to 230 (I presume your press is in F not C as this is what it says on that website) and an operating temp of 338 and a time of 140 seconds.

Put your mug in from the idle temp and let it heat all the way to 338 when the time will start and count down the 140 seconds.

You may want to experiment with some better quality paper if you only have that supplied with the mug press.


... And yes, printerowners is our website

[arthur.daley]

Hi

Whose mug press did you buy? What system are you using to print your transfer paper? Ricoh/Epson Sawgrass cartridges or a bulk system??

[edit] [I see others have posted whilst I was writing - really must get faster than two ponderous fingers - a bigger keyboard wouldn't go amiss either - like those large format push button phones for the partially sighted/aged !!!]

There seems to be a bit of variation in time and temp between mug presses (and inks) from different suppliers - my Listawood press runs a treat at 170/170 (Ricoh SG3110 and Sawgrass ink) and with the clamp at high pressure, with Listawood Duraglaze Durhams, if they are preheated before pressing.

Have you read the threads which talk about pre heat using something like an Andrew James Teppinyaki grill - look it up on Amazon should be under £20.

The thickness and straightness of the mugs sides and thickness of the mugs base can have a huge effect on the print quality. Especially the base as it acts like a big heat sink and draws heat away from the bottom of the mug and if the thickness of the base varies hugely the chill factor will vary as well - unless you preheat thoroughly.

From past experience, keep away from B grade mugs - they tend to be B grade for a good (or should that be bad) reason! Other peoples mileage may vary but buying 'el cheapo' brand or B grade can be something of a lottery! You never really know if the polyester coating is a bit thin or patchy, the sides aren't straight, the handles have a tendency to drop off (how good is your public liability insurance?) or it could be that the mug is perfect except that the handle isn't dead straight, even if its the latter - do you want to put your name and reputation to B grade stock?

You can just use a smallish piece of transfer paper and tape it on where you want it - however it might be a good idea to use a piece of plain copier paper or silicon baking paper (just be sure to keep it crease free and replace it as soon as a crease appears in the print area) as a full wrap over the top so that you can keep the heater blanket in the press clean from any stray adhesive from the tape and finger grease on the mug - you may need a few more degrees or a few more seconds in the press to allow for the paper. If it means that you get 20 logos out of an A4 instead of 2 or 3 and you have loads to do its worth a bit of effort to cut your unit cost.

I had a training session with Listawood and one of the things I learned was just how much pressure you need to apply - just make sure you position the mug accurately so the handle isn't pushing up against the element mounting bar which might lead to early failure of the mug handle. I had been pressing at the same sort of pressure as you outlined but their advice was to move up to 'iron like grip'! I have to say that the tighter grip and moving from using Powerdriver to a proper ICC profile made a huge difference to the sharpness of small fonts and fine lines - might be important for your periodic table type mugs.

Just my ten pennoth and I am sure there will be more advice along from others! There are some very experienced people on the forum which means that the signal to noise ratio is pretty good here especially compared to most other forums and I for one have learned a huge amount since I joined. That said there is nothing quite like experimentation and cocking things up big time to learn how things actually need to be done ;o)

regards


Arthur

[pisquee]

or it could be that the mug is perfect except that the handle isn't dead straight

I've seen this problem on most mugs to be honest from el-cheapo, through to proper/expensive ones, and just accept that that's the way mugs are.

[NikGrey]

I have that Mug Press, well - the version that came with their 5 in 1 deal which is the same thing but with a seperate controller. And the Same Ricoh (again from the same place as you).

I have tried a few Mugs but the results are the same with my settings of:

I80 secs at 180c (360f in our case) - and my Idle temp is 220f.

I am using pre-cut paper from Marvel (makes things simpler for me as I only have that paper in my Sub Ricoh) but I also have, and have tried the XP4072A Sub paper from xPress (same, good result).

If I am doing a full wrap image (I like to leave a white border at top and bottom) I do pre-heat the mug, if not I dont bother.

ALso I have a thick Floor Tile (Earthenware) I use as a Heat Sink to stand my hot mugs on in order to cool them - I have never 'Dunked' but recently I did sort out a 7.5L plastic paint can which is next to me full of water which is now at room temp as I think I will want to 'Dunk' intricate designs so the ink doesnt migrate (spread out) and make things blurry.

The only problem with that press (and I am waiting to buy an Adkins to replace it) is the blanket doesnt heat to the edge so if you get the mug slightly in the wrong place you get odd colours at the corners near the handle.

You have enough gear to produce the same quality Mugs as me though - get making some waste mugs is the only way forward for you now, experiment (its great fun).

Good Luck.

[mfacer]

Thanks very much for the information - it's really appreciated! Some great advice here which I'll be digesting and if the kids let me get a minute today I'll get one printed!!!

I am using pre-cut paper from Marvel (makes things simpler for me as I only have that paper in my Sub Ricoh) but I also have, and have tried the XP4072A Sub paper from xPress (same, good result).

Where do you get the pre-cut paper - or is it something you've done yourself? The Ricoh printer will be dedicated for mugs only, so if there's some time saving / cost saving by having some smaller paper I'd be interested in that!

I think when I come to print for the "proper mugs" for sale, I'd run a whole piece of A4 with the same logo, then keep that in storage for the next order.

That said, do the print deteriorate? If I printed something in Jan, but then used it on the mug in July would there be a problem? It's such small costs I don't really see it being a problem though!!

Let the experimenting begin!!!

[mfacer]

I have a thick Floor Tile (Earthenware) I use as a Heat Sink to stand my hot mugs on in order to cool them - I have never 'Dunked' but recently I did sort out a 7.5L plastic paint can which is next to me full of water which is now at room temp as I think I will want to 'Dunk' intricate designs so the ink doesnt migrate (spread out) and make things blurry.

I never thought about what to do when the HOT mug comes out of the press. I have a couple of tiles left over from my bathroom fitting recently, so might pop a couple down for that. Great idea!

[NikGrey]

I found the pre-cut paper on eBay - £40 for 1000 sheets, I am sure it was from MarvelPress.

Also I hear that the printed sheets do degrade over time, best to test an ancient one if you have one. I print sheets of my Mug Base Stamp and sometimes its a while before I get to use them but normally only a week.