Yolo v TMT v xpress v etc

[Dave271069]

Thank you YOLO for taking the time to answer on this thread,
the problem im having is peeling the Laser 1 opaque away from the backing especially if im printing a block image like the one ive just put up on post, out of about 35 sheets of paper i think ive made 3 t-shirts so far (lol but i keep coming back) as i do like the stuff when ive eventually get it right.
so are you saying that when i peel away the corners where i get the smudge etc i shouldn't have any, so it could mean the toner hasn't fused?

[Dave271069]

simon, this one image i put up was the final straw for me lol, it could of well been that my paciance had finally gone and i did not take my time, but still struggling to get the corners off and i do find it hard to peel away.

[Yolo Creative]

im hoping simon will do a copy for me on his versacam thats about as much as i know, as for the opaque ive just tried again and the same shit is happening, im sorry but its put me off it for life. i will try and upload some images of what has been happening.

It looks like the blade setting or cut force is too high and the blade is scoring the backing paper. When this happens, the image will be much more difficult and in some cases virtually impossible to to peel away from the backing. Try reducing the cut settings so that the blade is not cutting into or even scoring the backing. We have tested this paper on different settings and found that the ease of peel is directly related to the depth of cut. Also, leave the image for a few minutes after printing and check that you are not able to smudge the print with your hand. If the toner has fused properly then it shouldn't smudge. If it does smudge then you may want to try adjusting the paper weight setting.

[Dave271069]

thanks again,
but i did use blade 1 on a silhouette cameo as recommended.
i will give up on this image for now ad wait for another order until i test my self again......
thanks for now,

[GoldRapt]

I use Yolo and have some continual problems. The problems are probably as Logo says, down to my technique so without appearing to bash Yolo.
Mugs and More, on mugs...best printed on a dye sub mug as my dishwasher test have proven using a sample from ASDA/Dye sub mug of similar proportions.
Printing onto metal, comes off with handling but tada I figured out the work around to prevent that and ensure longevity.

Jet Soft Pro Stretch. Nice paper but .....It doesn't peel off in one motion for me and if I contour cut it breaks up on peel like a jigsaw. I always have a small amount of yellowing somewhere (looks like thin glue or sellotape reside) on a white shirt. I have tried different pressure, different dwell, different temp and always get some yellowing somewhere in the clear of the print. Maybe I should start increasing the dwell times as it's a curing problem

If anyone has had this problem and worked out what they did to correct it please let me in on the secret.

Seeing as Yolo are here, can you give an opinion on my JPSS problem please?

Well here the shirt I was taking about with the burnt edges earlier on.
Shirt is an old ladies M&S t-shirt, 100% cotton, Cambodian made. The weave is not as thick to the touch as it is in the photo's.
Paper is Neehan's Jet Soft Pro Stretch from Yolo.
This has been washed four times now, inside out in the washing machine with main coloureds wash at 40 deg. Non bio soap tabs.
You can see the off white "burn" mark around the Q in the 2nd photo it is I believe, not a burn but carrier reside.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2051[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]2052[/ATTACH]

I have the same problem with JSPS, It is a HOT Peel and doesn't come off in one go as it rips and sometime is like a jigsaw puzzle.
I use greaseproof paper as a Teflon sheet replacement and I am wondering if this might have something to do with the problem.

Could Greaseproof paper be my problem? I have yet to put the paper in the airing cupboard before use in case it's a damp problem but it's kept in a ziplock bag, and Ive checked my heatpress with a thermoeter gun. Any ideas would be a help. Thanks.

[Yolo Creative]

but i did use blade 1 on a silhouette cameo as recommended

We'll do a bit of testing this afternoon for the Cameo and let you know what we feel are the optimum settings for Laser 1 Opaque. With the Silhouette Cameo, we have found that the 'Thickness' setting is really important. We used to think that the blade setting was enough but recent testing has shown otherwise - the 'Thickness' massively impacts on the depth of cut (we think this is maybe the cut force?). We're actually in the process of compiling Silhouette blade, speed and thickness settings for our products in order to include these on instruction leaflets.

[Yolo Creative]

thanks again,
but i did use blade 1 on a silhouette cameo as recommended.
i will give up on this image for now ad wait for another order until i test my self again......
thanks for now,

We have carried out some tests which you can view here. We will admit that Laser 1 Opaque is not as easy to peel as some of the inkjet papers for darks that we stock but we hope that these images and suggested settings will be helpful.

[Yolo Creative]

We'll try our best to shed some light on this. You mentioned that you use greaseproof paper but we find that it isn't usually necessary to cover Jet-Pro Sofstretch with a silicone or Teflon sheet. We'd only recommend using a silicone or Teflon sheet if you are trying to protect a delicate fabric. Siliconized parchment paper is slightly different to standard greaseproof paper. We haven't actually carried out tests with standard greaseproof paper so couldn't say for sure if this is having an effect on the results or not. We find that the recommended pressing temperature of 190 degrees for 30 seconds works well on 100% cotton. Always pre-press the garment for a few seconds to remove any residual moisture.

Jet-Pro Sofstretch is slightly more 'brittle' when weeding so it isn't always easy to weed in one go. Like all transfer papers, the cut settings can have an impact on how easy it is to weed. We are currently carrying out tests to determine the best settings so will certainly let you know when we have these.

Heavy pressure is recommended so the press should be on the verge of difficult to close. If you peel whilst hot then the backing should come off easily in one smooth action. If it doesn't then this could be a sign that there is uneven pressure or temperature across the press. We are a huge fan of using Teflon pillows inside or below garments as they not only even out pressure but also help to distribute and retain heat which gives you more time to peel.

Jet-Pro Sofstretch does have a clear film background so unless you cut away all unprinted areas then you will have a film residue. However, the film residue should be clear rather than yellow. Yellowing after pressing is usually caused by either scorching or inks. What type of ink are you using? We had a customer recently who was using one of our laser papers and they found that it yellowed after pressing. We carried out tests with the same images using our printer and found that the ink was changing colour. We could check this for you by sending a printed sample. If the garment is particularly thin or there is polyester content then you may have to reduce the pressing temperature and/or time. Do you feel that the garment is lightweight? About 175 degrees tends to be the absolute minimum temperature (usually lowering by only 5 to 10 degrees is enough) and you should really only be reducing the pressing time by 5 to 10 seconds.

[Yolo Creative]

Seeing as Yolo are here, can you give an opinion on my JPSS problem please?

We'll try our best to shed some light on this. You mentioned that you use greaseproof paper but we find that it isn't usually necessary to cover Jet-Pro Sofstretch with a silicone or Teflon sheet. We'd only recommend using a silicone or Teflon sheet if you are trying to protect a delicate fabric. Siliconized parchment paper is slightly different to standard greaseproof paper. We haven't actually carried out tests with standard greaseproof paper so couldn't say for sure if this is having an effect on the results or not. We find that the recommended pressing temperature of 190 degrees for 30 seconds works well on 100% cotton. Always pre-press the garment for a few seconds to remove any residual moisture.

Jet-Pro Sofstretch is slightly more 'brittle' when weeding so it isn't always easy to weed in one go. Like all transfer papers, the cut settings can have an impact on how easy it is to weed. We are currently carrying out tests to determine the best settings so will certainly let you know when we have these.

Heavy pressure is recommended so the press should be on the verge of difficult to close. If you peel whilst hot then the backing should come off easily in one smooth action. If it doesn't then this could be a sign that there is uneven pressure or temperature across the press. We are a huge fan of using Teflon pillows inside or below garments as they not only even out pressure but also help to distribute and retain heat which gives you more time to peel.

Jet-Pro Sofstretch does have a clear film background so unless you cut away all unprinted areas then you will have a film residue. However, the film residue should be clear rather than yellow. Yellowing after pressing is usually caused by either scorching or inks. What type of ink are you using? We had a customer recently who was using one of our laser papers and they found that it yellowed after pressing. We carried out tests with the same images using our printer and found that the ink was changing colour. We could check this for you by sending a printed sample. If the garment is particularly thin or there is polyester content then you may have to reduce the pressing temperature and/or time. Do you feel that the garment is lightweight? About 175 degrees tends to be the absolute minimum temperature (usually lowering by only 5 to 10 degrees is enough) and you should really only be reducing the pressing time by 5 to 10 seconds.

[GoldRapt]

THan ks I will look further into this. I am using Pigment ink for use with heat transfers but at the time this happened I was using durabrite.