Any tutorials/suggestions for newer users? (Ricoh GXe3300n + CoralGraph Mugpress)

[DY357LX]

theres no need for using the icc profiles if your using windows - power driver does it all for you instead, just print to powerdriver.

If you do want to do the profile way - download the icc profile from sawgrass http://sawgrasseurope.com/technical-sup ... c-profiles

Ahh, I see. Thanks for the info!

At the moment we're still trying to get the time + temperatures (+mug-hold pressure) correct. Things are looking up slightly, here's some photos from today:
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Colours faded, horizontal lines, edges only 60% done.
http://i.imgur.com/IAQuN.jpg - Closer look at the edges + horizontal lines.
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Closer look at fader colours.
http://i.imgur.com/rPSp6.jpg - Blacks look off, SEGA logo is blurred/distorted.
(Not the best pics ever but they show what's wrong + where.)

Common problems:
1: Black colours are appearing brown/burnt.
2: Vertical lines (I think increasing the heat removes these but results in #1)
(I think video-game prints are great for testing as it's easy to see where the colours are off.)

I have the numbers (times + temps) written down by the printer but not to hand. I'll edit them into this reply when I can.

Any suggestions guys? Recommended times and temps from a fellow Ricoh GXe3300n user would be great. Fine-tuning the handle/mug-grip is obviously not so easy.

Thanks again.

Progress is (slowly) being made, we'll get there in the end!

[DY357LX]

Just updating you all.
Progress has been made!

Turns out the sub-paper was shoddy. We ordered new stuff from BMS (I think that's what they're called) and things are much better.

We're still working on making the edges smooth. (They look a little distorted/blurred on the final cups.)

Thanks for all the input.

[doe]

Cheers m8 I am going to have a look through the Middlesbrough area tomorrow
got no help in Darlington so chanced my arm on eBay and got the wrong stuffg