Well, I've emailed them and I await their reply.
According to https://www.microsoft.com/Security/port ... irector.DC it's a javascript redirection to a dodgy website. Many javascript redirects are legitimate and harmless, but others are hidden in iFrames and other page elements that you may not notice.
Maybe Avast is being over-sensitive, but something must have triggered it. Their other pages that I've browsed don't produce this warning, so there must be something particularly different about that page.
Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
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DREAMGLASS
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Re: Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
It may possibly be that I have two firewalls running as well that block everything solid. Looking at the virus definition on the web, it appears to be a redirect to another site, but no attempt is made to redirect the browser. It may possibly be that it is on that sellers host provider and they don't even know it's there.
Re: Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
Surprised how many are using non sawgrass ink. I haven't personally used a Chinese import but wouldn't discount them if I found one with decent feedback.
Not being technically minded on printers beyond the basics, I still don't understand why you can't substitute like for like ink from the original instead of getting a specific profil as you have different ink set-ups.
Not being technically minded on printers beyond the basics, I still don't understand why you can't substitute like for like ink from the original instead of getting a specific profil as you have different ink set-ups.
Re: Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
I'm using only A4 printer: epson D120 (fantastic printer!!!). And I never used any profiles :/ just plugged, filled CIS and start printing. using it from 2 years (same settings, same cheap ink, ...) and I can't imagine better colours on my mugs. It's just perfect. I'm new to clothing sublimation so I don't want to comment on that yet 
I can PM web address to my cheap ink supplier but at your own risk. please don't blame me if your printer will explode or heat press will set on fire
I can PM web address to my cheap ink supplier but at your own risk. please don't blame me if your printer will explode or heat press will set on fire
Re: Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
It's because nothing is invested back into R&D. The ink you buy from Sawgrass is the same whether you're printing with a 10-year old Epson 1290, or a modern Epson B40W. The ink hasn't changed, but the printers have, therefore a profile is required.Andrew;15589 wrote:Not being technically minded on printers beyond the basics, I still don't understand why you can't substitute like for like ink from the original instead of getting a specific profil as you have different ink set-ups.
If some of the profits went back into R&D, then there's no doubt that ink could be tweaked to more closely match a particular printer and you wouldn't need a profile.
This should be qualified however in that you are almost always using a profile, even if you don't know it. When you first install a new printer, paper-specific profiles are installed to match the printer and the OEM ink with the paper to produce the best results. A third party ink that doesn't have specific profiles will invariably be using the OEM-supplied profiles so, if the ink is close enough to the OEM, it appears as though you're not using a profile.
It should also be clarified that, when you're supplied with a profile, it's a generic profile to all intents and purposes. The only way to produce accurate results is to have a specific profile for the exact printer, the exact substrate, and the exact ink that you're using. Manufacturing tolerances in printers mean that a profile designed on one printer may be pretty inaccurate on a different version of that same model.
I've experienced this myself. I have an old Epson 1400 here that I used with the Artanium v1 profile. If I tried the newer v2.5 profile, I got horrendous results. That printer is a few years old. I have a second Epson 1400 that I use with the Artanium v2.5 profile. If I try the v1 profile, I get horrendous results. Same printer that can't use the same profile because the profile isn't accurate enough.
With both printers and either profile, I could not get a neutral greyscale and I'd always assumed it was an impossible goal. But when I created a printer-specific profile for each printer, I now print neutral greyscales.
Another example was with a B40W that I bought last year. Even using the Sawgrass profile, I got a horrendous green cast over everything. I couldn't work out what the issue was - until I created a specific profile myself and then produced superb results. In short, the supplied profile just wasn't good enough. Maybe my B40W was manufactured to the other end of the tolerances than the one that Sawgrass used to create the profile?
In summary, the profile you're supplied with is intended to be a "close enough is good enough" profile - how accurate it is depends on how lucky you are.
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DREAMGLASS
- Posts: 223
- Joined: 29 Sep 2010, 16:04
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Re: Looks like someone else doing Sub ink.
I think the fact that Chinese (and large format) inks often work ok without profiles, does bring up a question mark on the whole issue perhaps?
I am not sure why dye based ink from a 'premium' supplier should clog, as that would just waste ink from pointless head cleans and who would possibly profit from that?
Good job I'm not the suspicious type.... lol
I am not sure why dye based ink from a 'premium' supplier should clog, as that would just waste ink from pointless head cleans and who would possibly profit from that?
Good job I'm not the suspicious type.... lol
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