DSF

Hey all,

I've spent all day trying to print a decent case with my 3d machine (the big red one). Tried various times/temperatures. Reduced saturation in print settings, and even changed the silicone membrane but no difference.

General quality is great but I'm getting these bubbles just around dark colours.

If I open up the lid during process they appear within a minute. You can see where the film bubbles up (gold film).

Inspection of print on the film before sublimation the quality looks great.

Tried everything I can think of so open to any ideas?

Interesting thing is I printed a pure black graphic this morning with no problems.
Cheers,
John.

Added: Also checked water-trap in back of machine

Whoops, it s ricoh 3110 with sublijet r inks

O.k,

So I came back this morning with a fresh head.

I realised that since nailing the process first time around the only thing that's changed is the weather.

So that bought me back to moisture issues (and they do look like moisture bubble to me).

My theory was that if the ink is firing at a high temp' onto a cold film this could cause condensation, and as film has metal content it would stay cooler than paper in this weather (my office is heated but not overnight).

So i took a few sheets of film and just left them on top of my ST3042 to warm up for a few minutes before putting back in the printer.

NOW - The bubble have gone but I think the film has "cooked" slightly as the result is now a feint print with some black patches.

Next Trial - Leaving the film out to dry naturally - What a pain in the ****!


I'll post results here

I think film need to pre-heated and print at low temp (120C). Do you use tool to seal the film so the machine will suck the film or you just put the film on the case like you do with paper? How about try poke few hole with needle for the moisture to escape.

Hey Ushi,

ushi;92775 wrote:I think film need to pre-heated and print at low temp (120C). Do you use tool to seal the film so the machine will suck the film or you just put the film on the case like you do with paper? How about try poke few hole with needle for the moisture to escape.

The process simply won't work at 120c. My experience (best results to date) is to set the machine at 170c (though it actually goes about 10c+).

I lay the film on the case and use the Vacuum to seal.

Not sure I like the idea of poking holes in the film tbh.

Ok - So it seems the pre-print temperatue of the film is actually quite crucial.

Too cool and moisture appears during sublimation.
Too warm and it's the end result is less vibrant (kinda washed out).

It's funny how even when you think you've perfected your process something can change and it takes forever to figure out what that is.

Still - We live and learn.

This is why I just stopped using film altogether. The amount of waste from trial and error for me was cost prohibitive so I opted to perfect using paper instead. I'd still love to be able to use film successfully, as it's obviously a simpler process for the most part, but I doubt I'll ever give it another shot.

ArtyGamer;92834 wrote:This is why I just stopped using film altogether. The amount of waste from trial and error for me was cost prohibitive so I opted to perfect using paper instead. I'd still love to be able to use film successfully, as it's obviously a simpler process for the most part, but I doubt I'll ever give it another shot.

I'm a stubborn git and I bought around 1500 sheets of the stuff so if I haven't perfected by then I might looking at switching but I really hope to get it consistent.
I'm used to dealing with fiddling around as pad printing is even worse (humidity, viscosity, chemical ratios, static, micro-climates and on, and on) - Doesn't stop the grey hairs peeking through though

Ha! I always considered myself patient... until I got into sublimation

hi all.. i m new here.. sorry for the delayed answer.. if you still have the problem try to make the vacum the day after you print the image to gold film. for me it works.. ps. sorry for my english if not so good..