Printing on the Bottom of Sub Mugs.

[NikGrey]

I wanted a message on the Bottom of my mugs so tried an Orca Coated Mug - no dice.

But then tried a Mug I got from our tall friend, they are labelled as Durham Sublimation Mug RG-381. I found that there IS a coating on the bottom of these Mugs.

Thought I would post this here incase anybody wanted to try it, obviously SOME mugs dont have the coating on the bottom

This solves the problem of getting my info somewhere as I was having no luck with stickers, which were intended to be peeled off.

I am using 125mm Plate element, a wooden block on the base of the press (to save the mug from shaming under the pressure) and Silicon sheet folded in Two but I think a thinker sheet will produce better results (more folds).

See HOW to Print on a Mug Handle Ear.

[socialgiraffe]

Got any photos Nik?

[NikGrey]

Just cutting some Silicon to make a proper sized Puck then will try a proper one and post image.

[NikGrey]

Either I need to build up my Puck more (I think it's nine sheets at the moment) or something else is wrong.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2133[/ATTACH]

[arthur.daley]

Hi Nik

Any chance of a couple of photos of the actual press set up and how you are using the press/silicon sheets??

How long does it take to cook the logo?

I was wondering if it would be better to print the mug body as per usual, whip off the transfer paper and then while the body and base are still hot to print the logo on the base for just enough time to get the ink to sublimate - careful choice of colour to keep the time down and remove the need for 'full' sublimation as you don't want to run the risk of doing anything to the image on the body of the mug due to the extra heating time. I would have a tinker but unfortunately I don't have a suitable press (

I have been looking into this as well as I suspect have quite few other people.

Listawoods Duraglaze mugs are definitely not coated on the base according to Kris Trewick at Listawoods. They can print logos etc onto the bottom of mugs with conventional inks and a pad printing machine but of course its only really viable if you are shifting mugs in volume and can bear the extra costs.

I had a scan around You Tube and there are as few movies on pad printing using proprietary equipment but they weigh in at 1500 - 2000 quid. There are also a couple of movies for home made pad printing and silk screening kit - I am sorely tempted to get into the workshop and make something - if I had the time (

It also occurred to me that it should be possible to use an old fashioned rubber stamp to print onto the mug base - you would 'just' need to come up with a reliable way to ink the stamp for each impression - plus you'd need an appropriate printing ink but that shouldn't be too much of a problem - I would think that you could use a quick drying silk screen ink used to print mugs and if you stamp them just before they go in the press it may be possible to get the ink touch dry in that time.



Arthur

[NikGrey]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]2134[/ATTACH] The image will expand if you click on it.

I tried a combination of graduated Card disks to bulk it out and then Aluminium disks (From a Dr Pepper Can) as that would transfer the heat better (With silicon disks in between). I think I need to get more pressure as the first One I did (all the same Mugs) came out better with just Two sheets of Silicon BUT I am having to crank the pressure on my press which will surely make it fail sooner.

So, today I will find a way of delivering more pressure by designing a Puck which will do that evenly - and transfer the heat.

My existing *Silicon and Aluminium Puck is concaved. I think the amount of layers is dispersing the heat too much.

I have this set up the same as my mug settings for simplicity - 180 for 180 as it uses the same controller.

[Dave271069]

Hi
not sure if this would help but is there a way the oven method could work? im guessing if something v heavy was placed on the bottom of the mug then its a possibility, with halogen ovens costing from about £30 this could be a answer? ps i have a halogen oven but have not tried this yet

[arthur.daley]

I think what you need is an aluminium disc - maybe 10 or 20mm thick and a single sheet of silicon. Actually the aluminium could be as thick as you like - the thicker the better, so long as it goes under the press, it would just take longer to get up to temperature in the first place. The bigger mass of aluminium will hold its temp for longer and just a single sheet of silicon would give you the best heat transfer as you really don't want to be heating the mug for too long. One sheet of silicon should be enough to take up the concavity of the mug base - so long as you are only putting say a 35 or 40mm diameter logo in the middle of the base.

Arthur

[NikGrey]

I not have 9 disks of aluminium with a silicon sheet at the press side and at the Mug side for protection. now I have proved the concept I will find an Aluminium block - will have to light the fire in the workshop in this weather if I am to spend any time out there.

[NikGrey]

I am just about to replace this piston (In a Stihl TS400) and have the new one so may as well use this for this task