DSF

I’m using a Galaxy mug press with a Ricoh 3110 using Sublisplash inks.
Ever time I set this up to use, the settings are different.
I even went to the trouble of printing the previous settings on to the mug to keep as a reference.
Again today, I’ve set up up using the settings. 150c resting temp. 165c cooking time and 100 seconds.
Theses worked perfectly last time and now areas are paler than should be (although the correct colour, just pale), and looking patchy.
Is there anything obviously I should be looking at?




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I'd press at 180 degrees for 180 seconds as a starting point. I think 165 degrees is on the low side for sublimating mugs.

BTW, are you positive your press is on degrees C and not F?

I’ve checked the settings for C and F and it’s definitely on C. I’ve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. I’ve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

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Hi David, if you can send Adam an email adam@dyesublimationsupplies.co.uk he might be able to help you out with this it is sounding like a faulty press or wrap to me but he will be able to help you.
steve

david418;128109 wrote:I’ve checked the settings for C and F and it’s definitely on C. I’ve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. I’ve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

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DyeSubSupplies;128110 wrote:Hi David, if you can send Adam an email adam@dyesublimationsupplies.co.uk he might be able to help you out with this it is sounding like a faulty press or wrap to me but he will be able to help you.
steve

Thanks. I do that today. I did originally have a faulty wrap, which would constantly rise 13c over the set temperature whilst pressing. If the press is faulty as well it would explain a lot.


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david418;128109 wrote:I’ve checked the settings for C and F and it’s definitely on C. I’ve found that anything over 175c is turning the blacks to brown. I’ve also seen this commented elsewhere. I believe it may be a difference with the ink being sublisplash rather than sawgrass.

I will try changing the temperature up again, and see what happens.

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I use the sublisplash inks too, And the settings provided by DSS (and in webtrekkers comment) work for me - with the blacks coming out perfectly now I've sorted my double profiling issue (180deg/180s)

After advise from Adam I altered the settings and after testing again I started to think the mugs had been so cold the base hasn’t been warming up sufficiently. The design I’d been using had pale text at the bottom which just wasn’t working taking correctly. I moved the image up and it worked much better, so the combination of the cold mug and the pale text may of been causing the issue.



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I preheat my mugs to 110 deg C in another press before pressing at 180/180 in my main press, however, even then, I can't print too close to the top or bottom, or too near the handle. I now find silicone wraps in an oven a much better alternative to a mug press, especially when I need full-area images.

We use an Andrew James teppenyakki hotplate (cheap on Amazon and Ebay, or similar in Wilkos) to preheat heat mugs - can get 8 mugs comfortably on the £20ish model - which works well for 4 press heads - by the time you're pressing the next mug from the hot plate, it's had enough time to warm through nicely with the hot plate on a fairly minimal setting - I did have a spreadsheet detailing the timings for this setup for working out mug printing costings for most efficiency, but the tablet it was on got dropped by the MIL, and I've not had inclination to pull the SSD to recover.

I had tried preheating previously and this hadn’t appeared to work, but this was when I was using the faulty element. I have to remember everything I thought I’d learnt previously whilst using that element is necessarily correct.



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