3D sublmation Machine Review

[ushi]

Could you please share the printing setting (like color management, paper $ color quality options ...). I have the same setup but the color is way off . And is there anyway to save the heatpress setting, mine default at F and 8min, i have to set it back every time.

[XpressDesigns]

I use the settings provided on the saw grass website. The color is a light bit off i believe. I cannot really tell as i do not have the ICC profile for my monitor so i cannot tell what the color is on the screen. As for the settings, i leave my machine on 24/7. The panel is always showing date and time. I believe its because you turn it off with the switch on the back. I have tested it and it does reset when i turn it off via the switch on the back. I hope this helps

[marinot]

Hi all, I'm in Melbourne Australia, I'm just about to put in an order for the same mini sub from China, sounds like it could be the same supplier the prices are identical. My concerns were the time wasted in wrapping the paper transfer, I did see the machine at a show here in melbourne and they used a gold foil film, and just placed it on the case. it slowly melted around the case from the heat and then they closed the silicon sheet on top and heated same way as the paper transfer. The result was great. When I asked the supplier in China they said no you can't use film in that way you need to use a fixture (as the call it) or frame, and put your moulds inside it and then place in the sub, not using the Silicon sheet. Later they told me the frame doesn't work!! Anyway have decided to go ahead and buy the system, will use paper to start with. Another concern is the running cost, is it expensive to run? energy wise? and as far as the blank covers are concerned they are selling me new versions they just got in at $0.58c per case seems cheap anyone comment that?

[Littleshark]

Hello all,

I order mine yesterday. Soon, i will be able to share my expriences and surely ask some advices.

[g1njeremy]

Hi all,

I just got my machine today. I haven't unpacked yet so I'll share the performance of the machine once I have experimented.

[g1njeremy]

Hi All,

I've been toying around for a few days and to be honest, it's more like cooking than printing. What I mean by that is my result has been very inconsistent. Here's my setup:

Printer: Epson R230x
Paper: Sublimation paper from the machine supplier
Blanks: Blanks from the same supplier
Ink: No-brand ink from local supplier

I've tried on 20 iPhone 4 cases so far and only 1 came out great and another 1 which is above average. The rest came out with really bad "noise" on them...I think ink and the printer is unlikely the culprit since I have made great sublimation before with the same ink and one case managed to come out great looking while the rest is just mehh.

Ok so let me walk through my process.

1. Print image on sublimation paper, let them dry for 5 minutes and cut them. (To be honest, longer drying time is probably necessary to avoid smudges on the blank when you tape the paper on them)

2. Set time and temperature on the machine and turn it on to heat it. I've actually done two methods based on videos I've seen in Youtube. The first method is the method outlined by Xpress and the other one involves preheating the jig. (I have the $50 jig as opposed to the blue ones)

3. Tape paper on the blank. I found the best and fastest way tape the paper on the blank is to cut a line from top/bottom along the sides. I use about 6 pieces of tapes. If I preheat the jig, then I just make a cradle sort of on the blank. Anyway, I still get inconsistent quality on the corners.

4. When the machine starts beeping as it reaches 195 C, I usually leave it until it raises to about 200+ C and only then I put it in the blank.

5. Press! If the jig is preheated, I find 200 seconds is sufficient. If the jig is not preheated, 9 minutes is able to create a nice print. Make sure that you latch the silicon frame onto the base! The silicon cover is more bound to break as it did with me if you don't latch it when you vacuum.

6. Once done, peel off the paper and put the blank+jig on the cooling jig. Let it cool for 3 minutes. (If you want faster cooling you probably want to dump it in water)

The setting mentioned above is by no means perfect and so far I have not found one method (preheating the jig vs not) that is superior to the other...As I mentioned previously, I only managed to produce 2 pieces of great prints out of 20+. Even replicating the temperature and time is insufficient as the machine is by no means a precision machine. The variation of the pressing temperature, the way you tape, the initial temperature of the jig (I found that the 2nd & 3rd sublimation tend to be better than firsts), and other variables may come into play. Although I think the initial temperature of the jig and the pressing time are 2 of the most important variables. As long as you can get them consistent, you should have consistent results...At least that's my hypothesis...

However, as far as the machine is concerned, it's been performing solidly so far. My complaint is the inconsistency of the temperature and the fact that one silicon cover is torn apart within less than 10 pressings...It literally ripped during a vacuum. I'm hoping that it was a just one-off and the rest of the silicon covers are fine (I bought extra).

In conclusion, it felt more like cooking than printing :biggrin:

[Paul]

With grainy prints i noticed its more down to paprr. Cheaper paper will do that. I had some good, high relase paper before. It was perfect for fabrics but useless for fard itema. Also sometimes when blanks are pressed for not long enough it may show you some grain.

[g1njeremy]

With grainy prints i noticed its more down to paprr. Cheaper paper will do that. I had some good, high relase paper before. It was perfect for fabrics but useless for fard itema. Also sometimes when blanks are pressed for not long enough it may show you some grain.

Hi Paul, thanks for the comments. What I take from you is grainy/noisy print is largely the result of underpressing. My hypothesis was grainy prints were due to overpressing...It's really difficult to find high quality sublimation paper in my place because first there is no established supplier like Sawgrass who has established standard quality and secondly, all the suppliers here have no brand and they just import from China with (almost) disregard to quality...I have actually tried pressing with only inkjet paper and the result was pretty ok (most sublimation suppliers here will tell you that pressing with inkjet paper is fine) although the press from sublimation paper was noticeably superior...

[XpressDesigns]

Hello h1njeremy and crowd,
sorry Ive been away for so long. business actually picked up and been working a lot. As for your issues, i will try and address as many as possible.
First of my print times and stuff have now been standardized with the machine. Ive finally found the right time and method to achieve perfect cases almost every time.
I figured out it in a few steps which i hope will now be passed on to everyone else.

Printer: Epson 1430
Paper: Truepix
Ink: Sawgrass Artainium UV+
Blanks: Custom made with reinforced interior, Case is more rigid and hard. Also have custom dual layer cases (TPU/Silicon and shell)

1. Get a normal thermometer and place it in the room you are working. This is extremely important if you live in a climate which has spastastic temperature changes like mine (Canada). The reason for it is to measure the temperature outside the heat press.
2. Turn on heat press and heat up to 200C and then look at the thermometer you have placed in the room. for every 5C below 15C add 2C to the heat press. Example would be if outside is 5C (Toronto as of now) means +4C to the heat press. This means you set it at 204C. it might not seem important but i find it creates the best prints.
3. Wrapping the phone case is EXTREMELY important to the overall quality of the case. You need to develop a wrapping and cutting method that is fast but precise. there should be NO air gaps between your case and the print. Corners need to be tucked in very close to the case. At the ends, there are those rounded edges that is really picky in how you layer paper over it. Always let the paper on top (ergo the one on the back of the case) cover the paper on the sides near the corners. (i will try and post a wrapping video some time tmr)
4. You need to preheat your molds only up to about 20C and no more. Else it becomes way to hot to handle and get the paper on. Any hotter and while you are taping the sub paper on, it is already partially transferring and you will receive a crappy result.
5.Always place the case (when wrapped and ready) on a slant in comparison to the front controller panel. Do not waste time putting your cases into the heat press as the longer it is open, the more heat you lose. I like to just open the hatch slightly and toss em in.
6. I find that time is really dependent on your molds as well as case. Cheapie cases will always produce a less then quality result. I will run 1 case for about 9.5 min to 11 min. This time will vary a bit as it really depends on the temperature fluctuations that occur during printing . The easiest way to tell is that at 9.5 Mins in, lift the lid quickly and sneak a peak (not all the way open, just enough to catch a glance). Once you start seeing your print through the paper (meaning it images begins to show through paper) throughout the back, it is about done. Wait around 30 more secs and prepare to take it out.
7. As soon as you take it out, rip off the paper evenly but quickly to prevent ghosting, DO NOT DIP IN WATER. This will create stress cracks and mini fractures due to rapid cooling. It is not worth it. Just wait like 10 mins and it cools nicely. Remember to use cooling molds if you have them.

I really did rush the response so i will post a full video and process some time tomorrow. Hope this helped a bit

[socialgiraffe]

Top marks to Xpressdesigns.

Superb detailed answer