Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 20 May 2010, 13:45
Never thought of that either paul. There is so much to research isn't there?
Pm on way.
Pm on way.
this dvd give you idea how to do it Page 3 of 4
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 20 May 2010, 17:23
yes. there is loads! this dvd give you idea how to do it
this dvd give you idea how to do it Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 20 May 2010, 20:59
Like Paul said - Plastisol (Sericol's Texopaque) is used throughout the industry and seems to be the standard for fabric printing. I've used it for over 20 years now, tried other makes but still end up going back to Texopaque ink every time.
About 12 years ago we tried Sericol's water based plastisol (Texopaque Aqua, I think it was called) but it had a tendancy to dry on the screen which caused major problems on long runs. It might have changed now but I prefer the standard Texopaque.
Cheers John
About 12 years ago we tried Sericol's water based plastisol (Texopaque Aqua, I think it was called) but it had a tendancy to dry on the screen which caused major problems on long runs. It might have changed now but I prefer the standard Texopaque.
Cheers John
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 09:09
So Texopaque . When used is it how you use it or the mesh used which will give a thinner (not sure if thats the correct description) flatter appearance on the shirt?
If you make a screen for a customer with the intention of storing it for them for future use could that be washed out in a year, two or so and then be re used or does there come a time when there is no turning back and the screen is no longer of use?
If you make a screen for a customer with the intention of storing it for them for future use could that be washed out in a year, two or so and then be re used or does there come a time when there is no turning back and the screen is no longer of use?
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 09:55
hi mandy. yes. is loads about screen. it depence what mesh you using. finer mesch is better for smaller deposit of ink. great for half tones ans finer details in your art work. and you can store your screens! just wash them after use and chuck it on the shelf for future. i dont know if the is any time for storage. but i dont think so... but when you print few 1000's tee's then you may need to change your squeegee. dvd i just sent you will cover everything about mesh, screens etc... so your head will be full up of new knolage!
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 10:25
OK thanks PaulI look forward to receiving it.
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 10:55
What is the technical term for a screen printing station that rotates like a carousel?
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 11:16
Screen printing carousel?
That brings up a few results on ebay
That brings up a few results on ebay
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 21 May 2010, 11:45
Not just a pretty face hey! Now why didn't i think of that 
Re: SILK SCREEN PRINTING
Posted: 26 Oct 2010, 00:47
Hi,
it is possible that what you are referring to is discharge ink, which is waterbased and removes the base colour from the garment replacing it with colour when heat cured under the flash dryer. Alternatively a discharge white undebase may be used, and waterbased colours overprinted.
This process cannot be carried out wet on wet as with plastisol, the discharge ink carries a bleaching agent which basically burns out leaving its dye behind. This discharge must be carried out between each colour. The result is a design with no feel, that is completely wash and iron resistant. Quick search on youtube for discharge printing will explain in detail.
Just a thought but looking at the type of work you presently produce from your website, and the issues you appear to have with screens, stencils etc can I suggest the following, all of which I occasionally use when printing on dark garments.
Make positives from red or black sign vinyl, onto acetate which will allow far longer exposure times than inkjet or laser film then
Double coat the print side (non squeege side) of your screen, drying between coats for increased stencil thickness. Expose for longer to achieve a ticker stencil.
Increase the efficiency of your exposure lamps with a white correx board enclosure.
Finally for a quick robust stencil, use nylon garment vinyl, cut un-mirrored and apply to print side of screen after weeding out image area. I have used this method to single hit royal blue fleece with white waterbased ink through a 29 mesh. This gives a crisp edge definition despite the low mesh count. A quick spray of garment film remover and stencil reclaims from screen leaving no residue.
Use a good quality opaque white ink, and mix well before attempting to print. Opaque Plastisol tends to thicken in tub, a gentle warming will get it flowing and mixing better.
Finally, to get a look more like garment vinyl, i use the waste backing paper from sign vinyl on top of printed garment in heat press at around 165 degrees with little to no pressure for around 40 seconds, peeling the paper from print hot. This ensures the print is cured, and also gives a really smooth finish to the finished garment.
Keep at it, and one day soon you will get a feel for printing onto different surfaces, when I started screenprinting I used to get the jitters just thinking of starting a paying job. I now print anything more than six garments in preference to vinyl as its more rewarding and to be honest can be quicker and more profitable.
Matt
it is possible that what you are referring to is discharge ink, which is waterbased and removes the base colour from the garment replacing it with colour when heat cured under the flash dryer. Alternatively a discharge white undebase may be used, and waterbased colours overprinted.
This process cannot be carried out wet on wet as with plastisol, the discharge ink carries a bleaching agent which basically burns out leaving its dye behind. This discharge must be carried out between each colour. The result is a design with no feel, that is completely wash and iron resistant. Quick search on youtube for discharge printing will explain in detail.
Just a thought but looking at the type of work you presently produce from your website, and the issues you appear to have with screens, stencils etc can I suggest the following, all of which I occasionally use when printing on dark garments.
Make positives from red or black sign vinyl, onto acetate which will allow far longer exposure times than inkjet or laser film then
Double coat the print side (non squeege side) of your screen, drying between coats for increased stencil thickness. Expose for longer to achieve a ticker stencil.
Increase the efficiency of your exposure lamps with a white correx board enclosure.
Finally for a quick robust stencil, use nylon garment vinyl, cut un-mirrored and apply to print side of screen after weeding out image area. I have used this method to single hit royal blue fleece with white waterbased ink through a 29 mesh. This gives a crisp edge definition despite the low mesh count. A quick spray of garment film remover and stencil reclaims from screen leaving no residue.
Use a good quality opaque white ink, and mix well before attempting to print. Opaque Plastisol tends to thicken in tub, a gentle warming will get it flowing and mixing better.
Finally, to get a look more like garment vinyl, i use the waste backing paper from sign vinyl on top of printed garment in heat press at around 165 degrees with little to no pressure for around 40 seconds, peeling the paper from print hot. This ensures the print is cured, and also gives a really smooth finish to the finished garment.
Keep at it, and one day soon you will get a feel for printing onto different surfaces, when I started screenprinting I used to get the jitters just thinking of starting a paying job. I now print anything more than six garments in preference to vinyl as its more rewarding and to be honest can be quicker and more profitable.
Matt