also when you do you cost i can not see time you wasted doing this trial and error thingy. surely is more then you listed.
Not really Paul.
You saw the results I am getting from genuine Brother Dye Ink heat transfers on cotton tees (before I changed it to pigment ink), and Dye sub to poly tees in the same model Brother on Dye Sub without ICC profiles.
Because I work with photographs, I am tweaking them anyway to get rid of dull skies or greenish blues that were how the places looked on the day, but are not what I want to print. A quick colour curve usually fixes that.
I've set a monitor ICC profile that gives me a reasonable idea what the standard printer will give me in GIMP. It might not work properly with printer profiles, but it does work with screen profiles. I keep all mine in /usr/share/color/ICC if I remember correctly. Needs root access to save them there though. And GIMP doesnt like them being moved. If you move them around you probably need to reinstall GIMP.
I know that the difference between my ordinary printer and my dye sub printer for similar output involves turning colour enhance on, setting vivid and diffusion, then adding
about 15 to my blue setting and reducing red by
about 10. Then it is just a matter of guessing the brightness. Usually That's enough if I want to mess with stuff. Takes less time to do it than to describe it.
Otherwise, I just have a preset in GIMP of Cyan -15 Magenta -20 Yellow -15 that makes most things look good. Then again a simple brightness change. I have a few different presets for ceramic mugs, polysub mugs, mouse pads and stubby coolers (same material but colour prints differently), Tee Shitrts and a few things I make myself that are not available on the market.
Steps are typically:
Open image in gimp
Click Colours > colour balance
Click the presets
Click Colours > Brightness/contrast
Adjust
Click export and give it a name
I did it while I was writing each step.
Took 2.5 minutes including typing here. So it is not an expensive exercise. The dollar values would change once I run out of my freebie ink. But from what I can see, 100ml of ink would do a lot more work than I thought.
I recently discovered that printing Dye Sub at Best quality setting was not as good an idea as I though. Media > Plain and Quality Plain Normal makes a beautiful print if the image is Hi Res, and Bumping the Media to basic photo paper was good for some substrates while leaving media at plain and bumping Quality to high or the lowest photo setting was great for poly mugs.
It is mostly if I have a problem skin tone that it is a challenge. Like one I had to do for a breast feeding group. I had to make a special preset for that because some of the members wanted their babies to look spot on, not to mention things like freckles and tans and nipples - and that might have been easier with a profile. But we got it in the end. It was a fun, funny and unusual job.
If I work out how to make GIMP etc work with a printer profile rather than just a screen one, I will get you to make me one. It seems your price is fair and your profiles are excellent.
I'm a bit of a non-conformist when it comes to things that cannot be done. Pisquee will have seen my posts on another forum about dye sub on 100% cotton tees. I know it can't be done economically or practically. But I am very happy to wear two of them every week sometimes several times in a week for the last several months. They are each washed a few times a week and usually in hot water and hot tumble dried.
At a party today I was asked by someone who prints DTG what printer I had because they had never been able to print anything with absolutely no hand and no way to tell it had been printed on. Like a Dye Sub Poly shirt - there is just no difference in the feel, and they don't seem to fade like my first 3 did.
So I believe you can Dye Sub successfully with Linux without being a Linux guru. What I am finding is that I have to sharpen my graphics skills and photo retouching skills. And I don't think I will ever achieve the quality you guys get until there is a way to get ICC profiles working in Linux.
What would be nice is the powerdriver under linux. Where we could have an ICC profile then a printer driver that let us pick different substrates.