DSF

The Subli Blacks coasters have a black shiny back, they print ok but snap really easily!

https://www.technotape.com/p/q/coaster/ ... rs/UN.5935

Not sure if any use? Company is in Holland.

just bought another 500 bms coasters, and 500 unisub ones again justin....see if they any different,
and gonna try some things one of the fellas on here said to do...see if it also works....

also gonna muck about with times, temp and pressures to see if i can eliminate these marks down to minimum...
not worth buying the xpres jig then....from what i read, its total pants BUT >>>

gonna chat with one of the local joiners down here next week.....gonna see if he can make jig for me, with hardwood frame, but metal top n bottom sheets.....so the heat dont dissipate into the actual frame of the jig as much - taking it away from the actual coasters embedded in it.

the actual coasters will be raised about 2mm above the actual jig frame, so contact/heat is made first with the coaster, rather than getting dissipated through the wood frame..but wanting to see if the sheet metal top n bottom would also help that - This 2mm raise will still enable one to place the coasters in the jig, but let them get the heat first, rather than firing though the whole wood jig frame as it is now i presume

few ideas i want him to try m8....will let you know

Andrew;128333 wrote:For the others, you get ready made jigs with the hardboard type coasters which pop out of the A4 sheet. These are supplied as a full A4 set as standard. Might be a quick solution even if it takes a bit of adapting. Have some in work but going in later so will check out if I have a chance.

As for tape marks being left. The right masking tape doesn't do it unless left to cool too much. Problem is, sourcing that masking tape is becoming harder. Trial and error from your local suppliers if often needed as the sticky residue is left with many.



Thirdly, the black backed coasters about do not have a raw finish. These will not have this problem at all but pose a different issue. The white print area is fragile and easily chipped when removing the plastic coating. Need to adapt a technique such as using tape to remove it. Nothing is ever easy.

Ive been using the tape from xpres with their unisub coasters, 2 small pieces in each corner removed straight away, never had a problem..

Have run tests tonight on these coasters on a new batch that arrived today and our previous batch. Pressed at 200 degrees for 70 seconds with 20mm heat tape across the back. Left to cool and peal with no effect on the back. Video taken to show full process down twice if you want to sit through 3 or 4 minutes! Will upload to YouTube or somewhere if anyone interested to watch!! I know there are a couple of people reporting a problem but our supplier nor us can replicate. I also tried with 6mm heat tape but didn’t video it, again no effect on reverse.

I have been following this thread with interest but am now confused. The original post was about the cork backing coming away when removing the tape like the unisub ones. The video only shows some residue from the heat tape and not the backing coming away. I do not disagree that the tape makes are not good to see but this is not the original point of the post. Or am I missing something?


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Here is the video
https://youtu.be/VS1sxfvr_38

Backing is smooth to the touch after pressing and the tape removes cleanly.

Quinsfan;128370 wrote:I have been following this thread with interest but am now confused. The original post was about the cork backing coming away when removing the tape like the unisub ones. The video only shows some residue from the heat tape and not the backing coming away. I do not disagree that the tape makes are not good to see but this is not the original point of the post. Or am I missing something?


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The orginal post is about raw backs and thats not residue it's damage, if it were residue you could wipe it off with a damp cloth.

@bigj2552 if you want to save those damaged ones and make them saleable you could add felt to the backs.

bigj2552;127913 wrote:Looking for other view on this....

We bought there own make of coaster purely because the heat tape DIDNT rip half of the coaster backing off

The last 2 batches we bought from them, EVERY single coaster is doing exactly what the unisub ones did >>>>

Taking bits of the coaster backing with it when removing heat tape after pressing :rolleyes:....NOW/BUT >>>


What we want to know BEFORE we buy another lot from them is.....
Is anyone else getting the same probs only with bms own make of coasters ?

If not, we can only put it down to the new batch of brown heat tape that just came in around same time the new batch of bms coasters came in....
Maybe the new batch of brown heat tape is more tacky than usual....

I have edited the original post and it clearly states taking bits of the backing off with the tape. Not what is shown on the video. I accept that tape marks are not good but this is a different issue to the original post of the backing being removed.



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Quinsfan;128373 wrote:I have edited the original post and it clearly states taking bits of the backing off with the tape. Not what is shown on the video. I accept that tape marks are not good but this is a different issue to the original post of the backing being removed.



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He also states "exactly what the unisub ones did". I have the unisub ones, if you let the tape touch the back then hot or cold peel the tape will lift the fibers leaving a rough surface and sometimes bits will be stuck to the tape. What the video shows looks the same as using the unisub ones to me.