DSF

bassqee;44621 wrote:theres no need for using the icc profiles if your using windows - power driver does it all for you instead, just print to powerdriver.

If you do want to do the profile way - download the icc profile from sawgrass http://sawgrasseurope.com/technical-sup ... c-profiles

Ahh, I see. Thanks for the info!

At the moment we're still trying to get the time + temperatures (+mug-hold pressure) correct. Things are looking up slightly, here's some photos from today:
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Colours faded, horizontal lines, edges only 60% done.
http://i.imgur.com/IAQuN.jpg - Closer look at the edges + horizontal lines.
http://i.imgur.com/wLEVB.jpg - Closer look at fader colours.
http://i.imgur.com/rPSp6.jpg - Blacks look off, SEGA logo is blurred/distorted.
(Not the best pics ever but they show what's wrong + where.)

Common problems:
1: Black colours are appearing brown/burnt.
2: Vertical lines (I think increasing the heat removes these but results in #1)
(I think video-game prints are great for testing as it's easy to see where the colours are off.)

I have the numbers (times + temps) written down by the printer but not to hand. I'll edit them into this reply when I can.

Any suggestions guys? Recommended times and temps from a fellow Ricoh GXe3300n user would be great. Fine-tuning the handle/mug-grip is obviously not so easy.

Thanks again.

Progress is (slowly) being made, we'll get there in the end!

Just updating you all.
Progress has been made!

Turns out the sub-paper was shoddy. We ordered new stuff from BMS (I think that's what they're called) and things are much better.

We're still working on making the edges smooth. (They look a little distorted/blurred on the final cups.)

Thanks for all the input.

Cheers m8 I am going to have a look through the Middlesbrough area tomorrow
got no help in Darlington so chanced my arm on eBay and got the wrong stuffg