yellow bloom appearing, help

[Justin]

City ink express sell the same quality cis Sawgrass use, not too expensive empty.

[JSR]

City ink express sell the same quality cis Sawgrass use, not too expensive empty.

I'd rather have a few ml in it (say 40ml of each) so that there's no hassle in setting it up. It's just too expensive to have another 6x100ml ink system that costs £50 more than the printer when you already have sufficient ink of most colours on your shelf for the time being.

I'll probably end up swapping over the current CISS to the new printer and using refills in the old one for the time being, spending my money just on the ink colours that I need.

It's the same issue with the B40W. I don't want to spend £260 fitting a CISS to a £70 printer when I already have ink on my shelf. Why can't there be "second system" or "starter system" CISS with 40ml of each ink for less than £100?

[DREAMGLASS]

I don't want to spend £260 fitting a CISS to a £70 printer when I already have ink on my shelf. Why can't there be "second system" or "starter system" CISS with 40ml of each ink for less than £100?

Some might suggest its because a certain manufacturer is centred on greed, by unfair domination of the market.

[Paul]

city expres ciss 32 pounds for empty one. same as artanium as justin said. recomended. JSR - did u give up with B1100 idea?

[JSR]

city expres ciss 32 pounds for empty one. same as artanium as justin said.

It's a pity there's no middle ground between "empty CISS from third party" and "full CISS from Sawgrass". If I'm just going to go for an empty CISS, I may as well stick with refills for the time being.

JSR - did u give up with B1100 idea?

Well, the B40W is being tricky enough that I figured the best option would be to go with what I know will work - and that's another 1400. I didn't want to end up struggling with two printers.

The B40W seems to be okayish with some designs - primarily ones that are predominantly green - but it struggles with anything that requires a good red, brown, or dark shadow areas. That may be down to the lack of light magenta ink, or just a profile that's not sufficiently accurate, I don't know for sure. All I know is that there's far more "pop" to certain images from the 1400 than there is from the B40W which feels strangely "flat" and green/yellow.

I intend to continue working with the B40W as a quick n easy backup printer but, for accuracy and designs that require it, the new 1400 will be there. I'm hoping by working that way that my new 1400 will last a little longer than my old one.

The irony is that my new printer arrived this morning - two days earlier than expected. Only problem - they sent a P50..! Who in their right mind confuses a £260 A3 printer with an £80 A4 printer? Fortunately I'm working on an order that favours green so I think the B40W will handle that job well enough.

[bms]

It's a pity there's no middle ground between "empty CISS from third party" and "full CISS from Sawgrass". If I'm just going to go for an empty CISS, I may as well stick with refills for the time being.

The reason for this is that the agreements that the distributors sign do not allow the decanting of ink from the stock sizes that are supplied by Sawgrass. So if a distributor bought an empty CIS and offered it with, say 40ml of ink then that distributor would have their license to resell sublimation ink revoked with obvious consequences to their business.

So the options are (a) to sell an Easyflow with 100ml of each colour of ink or (b) sell a third party CIS with 125ml bottles (as a minimum) of each colour of ink! The figures don't stack up to do (b) as this would be more expensive than (a)

[JSR]

The reason for this is that the agreements that the distributors sign do not allow the decanting of ink from the stock sizes that are supplied by Sawgrass.

I'm not blaming the seller. I just feel that, sometimes, Sawgrass could do more to support their end users.

[gillyd]

Hi
Just thought i would post a reply on here as i think i have the answer!!!!

I was searching for an answer on here as I was having the same problem and it was driving me mad and as much as i love doing this, i was ready to throw in the towel! Sometimes it was obvious on the print out, other times it didn't show until i pressed it and I have wasted so many mugs!!!! I was even cutting things out intricatley (sp) and covering edging with heat tape!

I tried head cleaning, alignment, nozzle check and all the other suggestions on this thread, etc etc!! Then i came across this site [url="http://www.megauk.com/datasheets/5031_D ... ooting.pdf]http://www.megauk.com/datasheets/5031_D ... ooting.pdf[/url]

i use an Epson D120
I followed the instructions to the letter, and soon got frustrated that it wasn't helping! UNTIL I did the syringe ink through part! I got rid of all the foamy ink as described and fed it back into the bulk tank and HEY PRESTO I am now making my best mugs ever!!!!!! I am so pleased with the results!! long may it continue!!

So if you are having this problem, don't go out and buy new printers and cis, first have a go at the syringing (I actually made sure i was pulling ink through and not just emptying the cartrdge part)

So in my experience Yellow Bloom is caused by AIR BUBBLES!!!

Hope this helps

Gillian

[munk3y]

not sure whether this has been mentioned, i had this happen quite a lot over xmas ( and yes they do seem to shatter when hitting the wall at great speeds)
check your heat press, i had to get a new one cos some of the heating wrap was heating more in little spots rather han evenly around the press, dont get me wrong it had printed a few thousand mugs before this happened, on looking at the mug wrap there were light spots on the pad and this was where the burning was hapening, i bought a new mug press and been fine since, just a thought if its still happening.