JMugs;68566 wrote:Heavy thing isn't it!

Yep, "industrial" is the word. I think the base/frame is made out of 10mm thick steel.

<r>After a great start followed by a not-so-great 4 years I am now out of the sublimation game and have my superb DK20S heat press for sale on ebay.<br/>
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If you're buying and a member of this excellent forum I'd be happy to throw in an A3 printer, some shirts, paper and advice.<br/>
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Pretty happy with my Epson B1100 now that I've got used to it and got a profile sorted that actually works (thanks Paul!).

The only downside is the teensy ickle cartridges that are in it (compared to my old Pro 4400 anyway). Who does the best deal on a CIS system for it?

My local computer shop also happen to be an Epson service centre so I'm going to drop it in there and let them look at it. At worst, it's going to cost me £300 for a new print head plus £40 fitting, which isn't too bad. It's run really well for 4 years.

Soaked it all night, left it swtiched on all day, it still has 7 out of 8 blocked nozzles. I'm tempted to fill the carts with methanol, run a powerclean and chuck a match on it...

It smells like ammonia.

My new B1100 prints fine onto paper, but when you press a shirt I get the green cast JSR mentions. Installing the Artainium profile just makes it worse! Looks like I'll be following JSR's advice (for once!) and investing in a Colormunki!

<t>The instructions that come with ZAP say to remove the cartridge and attach a small syringe of ZAP to the printhead spike. You can't do that on my 4400 though as the cartridge is remotely mounted, and the printehead is fed by lines - so you can't actually get to the printhead. All I can do is soak ...

Soaked it for 2 hours then removed towel and left it switched on overnight. No change, I've ordered a ZAP kit so will see if that helps.

Sorry I don't understand. Take me through the steps please.